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The "best bang for your buck" is the $189.95 you are going to spend on a Hotcams MudBuster camshaft. And then the couple of bucks for the center spring from a 660 raptor you're going to pick up from your dealer (or your favorite site sponsor/website/local guy, but not eBay, NEVER trust a part like this from eBay. I repeat, NOT EBAY! Under any circumstance. The guy on eBay could be giving them away with free shipping, DON'T DO IT! Don't even get the camshaft itself on eBay. Seriously. Did I mention NOT to get these parts on eBay?)
Here's the deal: You can add in aftermarket exhaust, it'll cost you at minimum twice as much as the camshaft (for a single) and more than 4 times as much for a dual setup. And you'll barely feel a difference in power with the exhaust.
The clutch kit will give you a bit of "seat of the pants" difference, but not more power. Just changes how the existing power is applied.
A "duner" EPI clutch kit is about $200.
Changing the sheave will give you more top speed, but not more power. If you like to go fast, this is not a bad option, it'll just take a while to reach top speed without more power. The Sheave is about $200 and up (but you send your old one back).
You could also opt for an aftermarket intake system, say AFE and it'll set you back almost $400 and you'll probably not notice a difference in power on a stock rhino. Same goes for just replacing your stock air filter with a K&N, it'll set you back $60+ and the seat of your pants won't notice a difference.
You could even play with changing the carburetor, coil, sparkplug, etc and you won't get the power/dollar that a camshaft will give you.
Mind you, a nice dual exhaust setup does give you a "bling" factor that a hidden camshaft will never give...
Carb'd... Then you should also have a vaccuum gauge
FYI
A Suzuki M109R motorcycle will fit a 700 EFI Rhino and provide more performance than what can be obtained from the Griz 700 injector. Along with the larger injector a fuel controller must be used, examples are the PCII or the VDI.
I know this is an old post, but this statement needs clarification. You _may_ be able to run the Suzuki injector in your Rhino, but you won't get any more power for doing it. If the stock injector is keeping up with the demands of a stock motor (or near stock, ie pipe and intake mods), running a higher flow injector will do what for you?
In fact, the stock Rhino injector is still good for aftermarket cam (like HotCams 1-2-3) and higher compression (like 11:1 or 12:1). If you bore/stroke it, then maybe you could use a better injector. And by better I mean the Raptor 700 injector, at least that way you know it fits/works...
Has anyone ever used a Wide Band Air Fuel meter?
Yes
I am thinking of installing a gauge permanently so I can keep the Rhino tuned for elevation and air conditions.
If you have an '08 or '09 Rhino, it doesn't matter what altitude you tune it at, the ecu will adjust fuel according to the baseline you set to begin with. So if you set up your Rhino at 1000' and managed to get close to about 13:1 (for instance) when you go up in elevation (say you ride at 3500') the ecu will adjust the fuel quite nicely based on the 1000' setup. No need to tune for altitude.
It seems simple - weld a bung in the exhaust, mount the controller and gauge, run power and sensor. I assume a muffler shop can weld the bung.
Not much more complex than that. But you will have to calibrate the oxygen sensor initially. And every so often after that. And make sure you don't run a leaded race fuel (if you've upped the compression and are running something like c12 which is leaded, you have to switch to an unleaded race fuel, like c10 if it works for your ratio) And try and make sure not to weld the bung too close to the head (possible heat issues). And a few other things that may/may not be applicable for you (as I don't know your current setup)
I have seen a setup on Ebay for $189. Anything I am missing?
If it doesn't say Innovate Motorsports, it doesn't go on _my_ Rhino...
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