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Thanks for the link, neat stuff, no spare time at the moment. I will reply later.
I haven't purchased a single Castrol product since then! Courts didn't know @$$ from ground zero, but it seems they miss the mark on many occasions. That is good info for those looking to understand oils. Be carefull about the field of Tribology, the next thing you know you will have spent a fortune on books. I sure spent more than I should have but enjoyed the knowledge
Instead of reading our valuable opinions, just a joke, take a look at this web site. Mobiloil.com, select oil in the top bar and the pick FAQ's on the left side. the proper name for what I called slick stuff is Friction Modifiers. It goes into detail, it's a good read!
I like synthetic oils, just make sure you get the right grade. Yamaha has high quality 4stroke synthetic oils. I have also used Mobil One, just don't use the energy conserving type, they have an additive to reduce friction more than regular oil, slick stuff if you can call it that. Your 450 has a shoe type wet clutch, it runs in the oil. The special additive in energy conserving oils can coat the friction materials on the shoe and lead to slippage. It would almost be like a glazed brake pad, it's an expensive part that you won't want to replace if you don't have to. BTW I am sure that the plastic fuel pickup could be broken, I haven't seen it or done it yet, but look around and darn near every thing is plastic these days.
With out any specific instructions to quote I may have an explaniation for you. Many people install electric fuel pumps on their Rhino's. When an electric fuel pump is installed you need a path for the excess fuel delivered to return to the tank, this is usually accomplished with a T that is installed between the fuel pump and the carb, the fuelpump goes to the large side of the T, the T side goes to the carb, Then the small side of the T goes back to the fuel tank. It is common on all things with electric fuel pumps, they just recirculate the fuel that the carb does not need, by doing this a fuel regulator is not needed. Now there is a little more to consider, the T should not be just any old T, it may work.....but it is best if it constructed correctly. Think of the capital letter T, across the top one side is bigger that the other say the right side is big and the bottom leg of the T is big, and the left side of the T is smaller. Large fuel line on the large nipple all the way to the carb, small side goes back to the small nipple on the tank. But wait....there is more, if you looked through the T you would probably notice that the hole steps down, this means that the fuel would want to flow to the carb, large fuel line and large hole to carb. If it all sounds complicated, well it is KINDA. I have made T's out of AN fittings turning them in a lathe, still more work. A good off the shelf T you could buy is off of a Yam YTZ250, it's an old, 1985, 250 three wheeler, it used a vacuum fuel pump and sent the excess fuel back to the tank. NOW, after all of that you could just cap off the unused port on the billet adapter.
Got to say sorry for comment about safety, didn't mean to sound that way. I allways think of safety and usually pass it on. I have no intention to offend. I will only post if I think I have something useful that may help or save a buck.
That black plastic thing is a roll over valve, it is there to keep fuel from poring out when you roll the Rhino on the hood. Now I know that you are not going to do that!! Ride safe, don't do dumb stuff.
First thing don't waste money! What I mean is don't spend bucks on something that ain't broke!! The 660 used a fuel pump that worked by vacuum pulses from the intake. If the valves were out of adjustment, meaning a tight valve the intake vacuum pulse was weakend. This is the pulse that runs the fuel pump!! It is normal for the fuel level in the carb body to go down while sitting, it is vented and it just evaporates. When the fuel level drops the machine will be hard to start if the pump can't pump enough fuel quick enough. Remember a tight valve causes a weak pump action. Another thing, the vent tube to the fuel tank terminates in a frame tube with no filter on it. Nobody filters the vent air to the fuel tanks but they should. The fuel tank will get a layer of fine dust in it depending on the conditions where you drive. There is a tiny check ball in the fuel pump that is sensitive to dust, it can be held open by these fine particles and the the pump will not work well. Check the valve adjustment first, A tight intake vale will always cause hard starting, then put a fuel filter on the fuel tank air vent line, this will keep the dust from intering the fuel tank and driveing you nuts. Really buy a cheap fuel filter and stick it in the rubber vent hose that vents the fuel tank. Stick it in the end of the hose and stick it behind the fuel tank hanging down. If there is a ton of dirt in the tank you will need to deal with that issue also. Really this a simple problem and you can fix it with a low cost almost always. Enjoy your Rhino and be safe!
Brake noise on the drive shaft mounted disc brake is caused by dirt inbeded in the brake pads, you can call this glazeing or whatever.
The cure, if there is one is to clean the pads, you can do this with sand paper and a flat surface, move the pad in a figure 8 pattern untill the pad has a new looking clean surface. The ultimate cure is to change the method that you use to wash the machine. When you are on the left side of the machine with the power washer and blasting away on the skid plate in front of the wheel you are blowing all of the dirt into the caliper on the unit. The dirt and soap residue get into the pads and cause a glaze...if you want to call it that. Just don't do that and you will probably fix the problem.
Always test the brakes to be sure that it is not a more serious problem. When you hear the noise it is when the brake is lightly applied. If the brake is slowing the unit proportional to the pressure applied it is OK. The noise is the problem not the brake action. Cleaning the pads is cheaper than replaceing the pads, not blowing the pads full of dirt is even cheaper. Good luck and enjoy the ride!!
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