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#1 Re: General Polaris Ranger and Polaris RZR Discussions » Transmission problem with a 2010 rzr » 2010-08-28 06:38:16

Did you get a note from the dealer stating that they are aware of the problem and that it will be covered under warranty when it does blows up regardless if it happens just after the warranty comes up :idea: . From what I see in the photo that should be soon but personally I would not change the oil or have been changing the oil since the dealer first was aware of the problem and said they will fix it when the time comes, changing the oil will only prolong the problem longer your case. I am curious though, have you stuck a magnet in the oil to see just how much of the contamination is aluminum or steel :idea: .....

I have the 5 year extended 0 deductible warranty if it dont fail in 5 years it will never fail.

Nothing sticks to the magnet its aluminum.

I was reading in the service manual their is a bearing that fits into a pocket in the aluminum case their is a note for that bearing saying its NOT a press fit into the case so right now I assume that clearance was slightly too big and the outer race of the bearing is spinning in the cases.

Never been inside one of these before someone that has rebuilt one can probably say where the aluminum is coming from for sure.

I feel bad for these guys getting stuck for the repair bills on these when its a known problem, and the problem showed up after they made design changes then they made design changes again to cure the problem they created, at the very least they should be supplying owners with the parts and not make them pay for their mistakes.

#2 Re: General Polaris Ranger and Polaris RZR Discussions » Transmission problem with a 2010 rzr » 2010-08-27 15:04:27

You need to go to another dealer for your problem :idea: . And by the way good job on the information, It looks like you have a while looking into this problem :shock: ......

On the oil there is always some metal the first few changes on a new transmission till the gears are all broken in but in your case that is the sign of a soon to be catastrophic failure soon to come :!: .

Went to a second dealer same results.

Been changing oil and lubes on everything from lawn mowers to heavy equipment, cars trucks boats tractors you name it I have probably changed the lube on it.

What I see is not normal proof of this is comparing it to ALL the other fluids I drained from my RZR, the transmission oil does not look like aluminum paint that came out of the transfer case, BOTH dealers said they have never seen oil with that much aluminum hue in it come out of a RZR.

Even after changing the lube then driving it only 40 miles the fresh lube is a mile away from looking normal, its only a matter of time and it will take a shit and when it does a inexpensive simple repair will turn into major expensive one, its a pay now or pay later deal for Polaris, their decision their money.

Going to change it again in 50 miles then in another 50 miles that would be 4 changes after that going back to the schedule in the manual and running it until it poofkabooms I did my part went to 2 different dealers showed them the oil that drained out, changed the oil 4 times at my expense, offered both to bring it back when they were slow so they could do it in slack time I have went way beyond the call of duty. roll

#3 Re: General Polaris Ranger and Polaris RZR Discussions » Transmission problem with a 2010 rzr » 2010-08-27 08:31:29

For those having problems with your trans or those researching the Polaris transmission here are some links to others that has had problems you might pick the the brains of others that had a similar problem to aid fixing yours, good luck.

Lots of discussion on RZR transmission problems.
1. http://www.prcforum.com/viewtopic.php?t=28136&highlight

2. http://forum.highlifter.com/Polaris-RZR … 89444.aspx

3. http://forum.highlifter.com/RZRS-TRANSM … 75108.aspx

4. http://www.prcforum.com/viewtopic.php?t … sc&start=0

5. http://www.prcforum.com/viewtopic.php?t=28136&highlight

6. http://www.rzrforums.net/engine-drivetr … -gear.html

7. http://www.prcforum.com/viewtopic.php?t … sc&start=0

8. http://www.rzrforums.net/engine-drivetr … t-low.html

9. http://www.rzrforums.net/engine-drivetr … noise.html

10. http://www.rzrforums.net/engine-drivetr … issue.html

11. http://www.rzrforums.net/engine-drivetr … post400901

12. http://www.rzrforums.net/engine-drivetr … aging.html

13. http://www.rzrforums.net/engine-drivetr … ssion.html

14. http://www.rzrforums.net/engine-drivetr … ideas.html

15. http://www.rzrforums.net/engine-drivetr … shaft.html

16. http://www.rzrforums.net/general-rzr-di … -hell.html

17. http://www.rzrforums.net/engine-drivetr … g-out.html

18. http://www.rzrforums.net/engine-drivetr … -case.html

19. http://www.rzrforums.net/engine-drivetr … akage.html

20. http://www.rzrforums.net/rzr-s-specific … tures.html

21. http://www.rzrforums.net/rzr-s-specific … noise.html


Here is a picture of the oil out of the transfer case on my 2010 RZR-S hard to see in the pic but in real life it looks like aluminum paint, the dealer said to "continue to run it until something brakes or it locks up" after changing the oil I ran it about another 40 miles and drained it again, same thing aluminum oil, you would think Polaris would rather pay for a repair now than pay for replacing the whole trans after I run it until it locks up.. Oh well its their call.
http://www.pilotodyssey.com/PO/download … p?id=21776

#5 Re: General Polaris Ranger and Polaris RZR Discussions » NE one snap a belt yet? » 2009-10-10 15:54:40

I do not know how to answer your question :?: . Everything you said above is the problems with the stock system and just a little more and the kit fixes most of them :idea: . Under load you lose more power with the stock set up then with a well tuned kit. Going through sand washes the machine has more slippage through the belt system with the stock system then with a modified system. A good clutch kit will give you a much better seat of the pants feel then the stock system. You will get up in the power band faster and get there faster and in some cases even more top end. Pulling a heavy trailer down the side of a mountain is a big difference because of the braking improvements. Ask anybody that started with the stock system and then upgraded and they will say it is a night and day difference and the performance. Your belts will last longer and not slip as much on the sheaves. The stock system is not that efficient and never has been. I know this first hand because i have done quite a few of them and have seen the before and after effects. If you can give me a clearer question i can try to answer your question a little better :idea:  big_smile . But on the other hand since you do not haul any loads and run through sand washes or plow snow or rock crawl you may be just fine with what you have but as you get more seat time you will see what all the shortcomings are with the drives like i have seen :idea: .

So are they (the kits) raising the engagement RPM and or the shift out RPM if so by how much, if you have done a few kits you must have noticed the before and after RPM changes?


From your description in this reply its not sensing the load changes properly.

Are their changes made that affect the belt squeeze?

What I dont want in a clutch kit is to shift my RPMS up higher from bottom to top if thats all thats being done I like to keep my RPMs as low as achievable, raise the RPMs needlessly say 500 RPMs thats 30k more revolutions your crank makes every hour of run time.


As a test I added about 250 lbs then took another ride and was impressed how well the clutching still worked with the added weight, on my Honda Pilot  just adding 100 lbs is really noticeable.


I am trying to prepare for some dune and desert riding, anybody try taking a RZR up Choke Cherry hill or Sand Mountain?

Thanks again.

#6 Re: General Polaris Ranger and Polaris RZR Discussions » NE one snap a belt yet? » 2009-10-10 13:05:08

Hoser, most of your questions from reading your post have already been answered on this thread. I will add that the main issue with the cheap XP and new RZR secondary clutch is you can not change the helix for a better and the secondary from dirty dawg is rubber dampened. The stock setups are tuned for sea level and are tuned to be soft and and the belt slips way more. here is the link to dirtydawg performance and he stocks the belts as well. You can also google dayco and look up the part numbers there for the belt.

www.DirtyDawgPerformance.net
http://www.daycoproducts.com/daycoweb.n … SNOWMOBILE

Like i said earlier in the thread it is way to involved to get into the exact detail on the differences on what has changed and what needs to be changed on theses clutches and would be best to call him on what he would exactly do for your year and model.

Ok I read this whole thread again and dont see what the problem is other than driving slow like your rock crawling (one foot on brake one on gas) the owners manual covers that issue.

"They are harder on them when running the stock clutching but if you get a good kit it fixes allot of the stock setups shortcomings. "

The shortcomings are the clutch engages at too low RPM or up shifts too slow, up shifts too fast dont back shift fast enough, I dont have much seat time in a RZR and its mostly at low speeds and flat ground what am I looking for?

So far I thought the clutching was pretty good from the factory, time will tell once I am able to put the machine through more.

#7 Re: General Polaris Ranger and Polaris RZR Discussions » NE one snap a belt yet? » 2009-10-10 06:23:03

The kit from dirty dawg is supposed to make a major night and day difference and eliminate most of or all the problems you are talking about. They are the most expensive but said to be worth every penny. I did a few on a some friends Razors and Rangers about a year or so ago and they were very impressed with them. Mine has the one from EpI and it made mine allot better and I now put more power to the ground and it was really noticeable in the sand washes and i don't smell the belt as nearly much anymore when pulling the trailer like the one you see on my post and i pull it loaded up hills and down hills loaded like you see it. I am going to talk to Dale over there at Dirty Dawg if the money starts flowing again and still do the upgrade because his kit is supposed to be twice as good as the one I am Running now from EPI. I always said that this should always be the first modification on a Polaris because the factory stock setup has its major issues. You should call him up and do one before your moab trip but make sure you give him all your information so he can tune it in for you and your uses :idea: .

Can you describe in detail whats wrong with the stock clutching?

I know they have to tune the clutches to work for everybody and most need to tune the clutches for their mods and liking.

Any suggestions on replacement belts, brand and part numbers?

#8 Re: General Polaris Ranger and Polaris RZR Discussions » NE one snap a belt yet? » 2009-10-10 06:19:40

Thx Dale, like I said I may think about it this winter (My garage isn't heated so working with metal parts during winter just stinks) Sorry about all the questions but, like I said this whole belt drive thing is relatively new to me so my confidence level working on them is rather low. Might just look into a clutch kit. Would a mod like this void a warranty BTW?? I purchased a 5 year warranty on this thing and not looking to blow it. I realize that they have to prove that a failure was directly related to the aftermarket part but if I were to royally screw something up, I can just imagine the BS that would come along with trying to have it fixed under warranty. Thanks!

Switch back to the stock parts before taking it in for a warranty claim?

#9 Re: General Polaris Ranger and Polaris RZR Discussions » NE one snap a belt yet? » 2009-10-10 06:18:38

Well this can get to be a very involved answer because from model to model year, and from the standard RZR to the RZR-s it is all about what they did to tune the clutch. Standard rzrs from 9/30/08 and before had the good secondary clutch system and 10/01/08 and after used the basic same cheap crappy one that is used on the Ranger Xp. The Rzr-s was never effected with this change. The difference between the standard RZR and the RZR-s primary clutch is tuning and EBS and by removing the limiter on the RZR-s models. On the 2010 models they removed the limiter and the sheaves are still about the same. there are a few part number changes but none of which would blow a belt. Like i stated earlier in the thread, belt failure is normally related to alignment problems, Broken engine or transmission mounts or a defective belt. I personally would not just take the limiter off unless i was going to do a full clutch kit and check the alignment anyways but that is me. As for every one person that has had the belt issue there are 20 that don't. There are much better belts out there like the ones from dayco that are much stronger then the stock belts. Like with all modifications there will always be a risk that a modification that is done to one machine may not work as well on a same model but a different machine. Until you try it you will never know what the outcome will be. As for doing any modifications it should only be done if you are mechanically inclined and if that is not the case i would deal with a guy like dale at dirty dawg performance and have him set it up for you.....

Have a part number for the DAYCO and a link to dirty dawg?

Thanks

#10 Re: General Polaris Ranger and Polaris RZR Discussions » NE one snap a belt yet? » 2009-10-10 06:16:30

No because it is one of the modifications that they do to the RZR-s to get more top end out of it and they have removed it on the 2010 standard RZR.

I did some quick searching for removing the clutch spacer. Found that a bunch of people were snapping belts shortly after they removed the spacer. Others were arguing that the belts may have already been stresses/broken in incorrectly. However a different guy said that it was the first mod he did when he got his RZR with 0hrs and he snapped his belt shortly thereafter. Of course he may have beat the bag out of it but it leads me to be a bit skeptical of the mod. Since they removed the spacers on the new RZRs, have they changed the pulley design at all? If not I will be removing some extra parts from mine this winter big_smile Just want to know, if it saves me $80-100 it would be worth it.

Local dealer said the same thing "some" experience belt problems after removing the spacer on the RZR my guess is its a mfg tollerance thing, something is machined slightly different on "some" and allows the belt to ride too high on the clutch then poofkaboom, if your one of the "some" that have had belt problems after removing the spacer I would buy a new spacer and remove 1/8" off the width and try it to see what your top speed is and if you have belt problems then you might remove another 1/8" and try again.

Just a thought.

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