Need Help

grtrnd1 · 2009-06-24 18:26:23

This 08 stock RZR is driving me nuts. I bought it used. All stock. Somedays it runs great. Other days it's throttle sluggish. But you can push down on the throttle and it will clear up. Sometimes it will miss going up a grade and back fire when you are going down a grade with no foot on the gas. I've asked this question before and I took the bed off and cleaned everything out, mud, rocks, sticks, grass, everything. I took most of the connections apart that I could reach and cleaned them. (They were all clean inside though). It ran great last night. Now today I took the air cleaner apart, the the TPS sensor off and made sure it was clean. I put it all back together, started it up and it idles rough, backfires severely when you let off the fuel. I took the bed back off and took the TPS sensor off the throttle body again and seen it looked like you could adjust it a little by turning it while it's on the throttle body. So I did just that. It would idle smooth, I would have my wife rev it up while holding it and it revved up fine. I put the bolt in to tighten it up and hold it in place and start it up and get the same low rough idle, popping through the exhaust when you let off the throttle. While trying to adjust the sensor when it was idling, it was so rich that it was burning my eyes. I am at a loss as what to do now. Please help me, I'm down and can't ride. Thanks.

Brad777 · 2009-06-25 08:29:45

I'm not a good source of information for you, but let's keep this thread alive until we get you some help. There is surely someone here who can help you.

grtrnd1 · 2009-06-25 12:58:17

I'm sure someone has had this problem before. It seems like alot of people have bought new TPS sensors. I was told it needed it calibrated but, I didn't do nothing but unbolt it and bolt it back on. I didn't buy a new one. Someone said you need to do a TPS Initiallazation but I don't own a service manual. I found a downloadable service manual online but when I go to upload it, It says file is damaged. I could take it in for service, but I don't have no way to haul it and the nearest dealer is over an hour away. The guy I bought it off of delivered it for me. Hopefully someone can give me some kind of direction. I was hoping someone could forward me the directions on how to do the TPS Initiallazation. Thanks.

RANGERDALEXP · 2009-06-26 14:25:33

You will need adobe reader to read the manual i sent you, on the link below is for a ranger XP but is the same procedure on how to set up the TPS sensor. The only difference is set the voltage to .735 instead of .710. You will not need the extra tools that are listed in the manual. Also i have included a link for adobe 9.1 if needed for a free download.

http://www.sidexsideforum.com/viewtopic … hlight=tps

http://download.cnet.com/Adobe-Reader/3 … 00062.html

grtrnd1 · 2009-06-26 18:40:38

I've got Adobe 9.1. I don't know why it wont work. I had a buddy download it and put it on a disk for me. i am going to load it here and see what i can get out of the TPS Initialization. Thanks. I bought a digital voltmeter today too. I didn't think the Analog volt/ohm meter I had would work.

RANGERDALEXP · 2009-06-26 19:58:22

Are you running wounderfull windows Vista :!: :idea: :?: . I PM'ed the setup to you. The driver is a little trickey to make but with a little fabrication it can be done. It is part of polaris's way to make you take it to the dealer but it can be done....

grtrnd1 · 2009-06-26 21:31:39

Windows XP,, it still says the file is damaged. But like I said, my stepson downloaded it on his computer and it was pretty easy to understand after I read it, But i didn't understand how to do it without the special adapter from polaris, but now i understand to just hook the red lead into the yellow wire coming from the TPS and the black one to ground. turn on the key back off the air control screw until the plate is shut, adjust the tps until i get .528. tighten screw, then adjust the air screw in until it reaches i believe .710. then your ready to go. thanks, you've been a lifesaver. I appreciate the time you have taken. hopefully this will get me back on the road. i hate to pay a dealer something i know i can find on the forum and fix myself.

RANGERDALEXP · 2009-06-26 22:39:39

Keep me posted and i can now try to walk you through any other fine tuning and humps you may encounter now that you have a foundation to work off of...

grtrnd1 · 2009-06-26 23:01:09

I thank you again, I am indebted to you. I will run the test in the morning and let you know how it turns out.

RANGERDALEXP · 2009-06-27 11:30:12

I know you PM'd me this morning but i am going to post the answer here so others can see in the future for the same problems, I do not know why when TPS sensors are set up the way the factory says and they idle to high and i have seen this before but when people install bigger throttle bodies on these engines they have to throw out the base voltage and stick with the .735 as the final setting. I had to do this on mine as well and it has the stock throttle body. So adjust the idle so it sounds proper and go back to the tps and reset to .735 and repeat the procedure back and forth till it idles well and maintains .735, don't worry about the base setting. As for the leaking spark plug wire they are prone to this and must be fixed to make all other adjustments. this could be your backfire and hesitation. This should be done in a dark place and look for the leak at different RPMs. Make sure there is no dust or water in the spark plug hole and boot and all that may be needed is to turn the boot a little. You may want to add some dielectric grease as well. This would be a good time to change the spark plugs as well. Do not use Auto lite because i have seen internal shorting on that brand.

grtrnd1 · 2009-06-27 13:49:09

Thanks for the reply. I did change the plugs right after I purchased the bike. I put NGK plugs in it. This was a pretty simple fix once you look at the pictures and get you to explain it to me like you did on how to adjust the TPS. When you start the bike up without touching the throttle it will idle low. Cough once or twice and quit. So you start it again, and bump the throttle a couple times, it will idle high, (around 15 or 1600) (it will sound smooth while maintaining the higher RPM). Then after a minute bump the throttle and it will idle down. (1250) Then it will act like one cylinder misfires, just for a second. It will do this constantly about every few seconds or so. I have shaken every wire, twisted plug wires. and cannot get it to do it when I want it to. It seems to run fine (knock on wood) while driving, just only at an idle. I'm going out here in a minute and check the voltage to the TPS again and make sure it didn't change. Like I said in the PM. I pulled the plug wire off while it was idling to see if the hesitation was in once cylinder or the other and got bit with one of them through the plug wire. I will go out tonight and look at it in the dark and see if I can see a spark jumping. I thought if it was jumping that it would do it throughout the rpm range. Thanks for your help. We are getting close here... lol Get this one,,,, I just came back inside from the bike. I've had the bed off the bike until I get it running properly for the ease of seeing what I'm doing. I was able to get the miss to stop but.............While it's idling.... If I hold my hand over top of the velocity stack for the air cleaner intake, and darn near close it off to the point that I can feel the air sucking down through my fingers for the engine to breath, it will idle down and idle smooth and sound good. Once I take my hand off the velocity stack and it starts pulling air in through on its own it immediately starts the every couple second jerk.. Whats the deal with that? Dumbfounded now. Top end seems to be fine, just idle.

RANGERDALEXP · 2009-06-27 17:18:14

Give me some history on the machine, Sounds like the other guy drove it like a stolen rental car :idea: . I would run a compression test at this point. I need to know more about how it was treated and the environment it was in for any further ideas. What was it used and how was it used. Also did you try what i said before your last post :?: :idea: . I think i covered the cleaning of the T-map/T-bap sensor some time ago with CRC mass air cleaner and if not that will need to be done :idea: .

grtrnd1 · 2009-06-27 22:31:02

Thank you, I went out in the dark and there is no arcing of the plug wires no where, even when sprayed with a mist of water. When I started the bike it idled high, (1700), I couldn't even put it in gear, it would grind. After about of minute of warm up, it idled itself down to 1250, and started the fumble. It doesnt backfire anymore when you let off since I adjusted the tps base setting and the air intake setting as per your directions. But like I said,,, If I hold my hand over the intake air cleaner velocity stack and cover it clear up with my fingers to the point of air is sucking down through my fingers it will smooth out and purr like a kitten. As soon as I take my hand off where it can get a breath of all the air, it immediately starts to fumble one quick time every couple of seconds. I can do a compression test on each cylinder in the morning and let you know. I don't know how the bike was treated. The guy I bought it off of moved away. The bike actually looks brand new. Full skidplates all the way back, expensive bumpers front and back and side skid bars, no rips in the seat.. it looks well taken care of. Now as for the 1/8 inch of pedal freeplay. I can move my pedal that much before the engine starts to rev up, but the throttle cable is tight against the mounting point on the pedal itself. If I push down on the pedal easy and get the idle up above roughly 1500 rpm the stumble clears itself. Thanks again.,, I'm not to familiar with Multimeters either. I bought a cheap digital one. I set it on 20 volts DC. When adjusting the baseline at .528...My multimeter only shows the first two numbers .52, so I don't know if that little bit of unknow might be causing the problem. I don't know how to get my meter to show the third number. thanks again

RANGERDALEXP · 2009-06-27 22:58:54

As i read again you need to forget the base voltage and do what i said a few post ago, adjust for best idle and set the TPS to .735 and reset the idle and repeat till the voltage stays at .735 at a good idle. You need to forget the manual at this point and i am sure it will fix most of your problem. When you put your hand over the intake you restrict the air and that is all the butterfly in the throttle body is doing. Once the butterfly is set along with the TPS the engine will have the proper air to fuel ratio through the whole RPM range, The TPS job is to only know how much fuel to add at any given throttle position and RPM. Think of it as a variable fuel to air ratio Jet.

grtrnd1 · 2009-06-28 10:22:55

I'm sorry I misunderstood your post about the "forget the baseline".. I finally understand now. I went out and started the bike it idled rough and stumbled every few seconds, so I loosened the TPS and turned it until it idled smooth. It idled about 2400 rpm. So I then backed the air intake screw down to .735. Started it up and it idles smooth with no hesitation. So far it hasn't backfired and runs good throughout the power range. I am very pleased. Thank you so much. I hope I can help someone on this forum as much as you have helped me some day. Thank you, thank you, thank you. I wish I could help you out somehow, but my knowledge of this rzr is nill compared to yours. I greatly appreciate your help.

#1 2009-06-24 18:26:23

Re: Need Help

#2 2009-06-25 08:29:45

Re: Need Help

#3 2009-06-25 12:58:17

Re: Need Help

#4 2009-06-26 14:25:33

Re: Need Help

#5 2009-06-26 18:40:38

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#6 2009-06-26 19:58:22

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#7 2009-06-26 21:31:39

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#8 2009-06-26 22:39:39

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#9 2009-06-26 23:01:09

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#10 2009-06-27 11:30:12

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#11 2009-06-27 13:49:09

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#12 2009-06-27 17:18:14

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#13 2009-06-27 22:31:02

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#14 2009-06-27 22:58:54

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#15 2009-06-28 10:22:55

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