Help with diff issues

cusco · 2010-02-01 11:51:20

Hi, I'm a new owner of a used 08 ranger crew 700 LE (stock as far as I can tell) and am looking for some help. I have searched the forum and have not found any useable info on this issue, please bear with me if I've missed it.

When using the drive mode selector 4wd/2wd/1wd it seems that even when I am in 1wd the wheel will only spin for so long and then the other wheels engage. when in 2wd it does the same thing but I can definitely tell the difference (more traction before the front engages) in 4wd there is very little (if any) spin time before the front drive kicks in.

I am on smooth snow pack so the wheels are spinning quite a bit before the front drive kicks in. I don't think I would notice it or spin the wheels that much under normal conditions. It doesn't seem like it would be good for it to kick in while spinning like that (bit of a quiet "clunk" when they engage).

Is this normal? At first I thought the 4wd was stuck on but there is a definite difference between the modes.

Can anyone shed some light on this???
Thanks. :?:
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Suzuki RE5

Badley · 2010-02-01 14:55:00

My RZR will not engage front diff. while there is drive pressure. Have to back off the throttle a little for it to engage.

RANGERDALEXP · 2010-03-08 14:33:22

The way the Polaris system works on the ranger is when the selector is engaged in the one wheel mode it puts a momentary 12 volts to the rear diff and engages the solenoid and then backs the voltage down just enough to keep the solenoid energized to keep the rear locked in one wheel mode. As long as the solenoid is hot it will stay in one wheel mode till the voltage is completely removed. In two and four wheel modes the ECM removes the voltage to DE-energize the solenoid and puts the rear in two wheel lock mode, I know this sounds backwards but this is how they did it and I do not understand why :?: . I had some issues with the diff on mine not locking into two wheel and i was chasing my tail in circles to find out why and I nearly had to reverse engineer the dang thing to fix the problem. The manual was almost useless on this issue :x .

Now the way the four wheel system works is even if the AWD switch is on it is in two wheel mode till the ECM senses wheel slip from the back to the front wheels and within a fraction of a second it locks all 4 wheels, as long as the ECM senses the wheel slip it will maintain 4 wheel lock and then will unlock it back into 2 wheel mode when the slipping stops.

Now for the problem at hand, If the switch is in one wheel drive mode and it jumps into 2 wheel mode for no reason at all you are having voltage issues going to the Solenoid and or the solenoid is going bad, That part is not cheap as with all Polaris traditions . If it jumps into four wheel mode while the switch is in one wheel mode that is either a bad switch or ECM.....

Titan · 2010-03-08 22:44:55

:shock: HOLY DUCK SHIT :!: :shock: Are you still talking about a side-x-side or a $150,000 Lexus suv? just seems a bit elaborate for a UTV. :? :?:

cusco · 2010-03-10 11:13:54

Thanks guys, I am still working on it now that I blew the belt and am waiting for my Bikeman clutch and replacement belts. I dropped the fluid out of the front diff and it looked like a nice starbucks with triple cream. I have heard that using the wrong oil in the front diff can cause it to act up, so I'm sure adding water to the mix doesn't help. I don't seem to have trouble with the RWD (that I can tell) it just seems that the front kicks in when it feels like it. I also found a torn CV boot, torn steering boot and the rod end was shot and the little boot on that was wrecked as well, all on the driver side. :cry: the things you find after you buy a used machine...

On the plus side, I am already learning way more about this machine than I knew about my bulletproof Honda rubicon. The first thought I had after blowing the belt was that I'd have to get my Honda to pull this tank home, too bad I'd already sold it!

Can anyone give me a quick rundown on how to remove the front axle to replace the cv boot? It is the one closest to the diff, on the drivers side. Thanks, I'll post again when I can see if the oil change helps the diff issues.
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RANGERDALEXP · 2010-03-10 15:41:32

:shock: HOLY DUCK SHIT :!: :shock: Are you still talking about a side-x-side or a $150,000 Lexus suv? just seems a bit elaborate for a UTV. :? :?:

I knew about the way the system worked when i bought it new and yes I do agree it seems way over elaborate for what it needs to do. My problem was the backwards way they did it. If it does not get the proper signals from the ECM and the ECU as well as the transmission the system will not work correctly. On the 05 till the early 07 model they have had issues with the ECM module and the Polaris term is (Electronic Control Module) has gone out and you lose the drive system as well as other features. At around 2007 till now it is done with the ECU known as the (Engine Control Unit) through the fuse box and relays. This system has not had as much of an issue and is cheaper to fix. The 05 to early 07 had both the ECM and Ecu's in them .

Well enough of this because it all gives me a headache .

RANGERDALEXP · 2010-03-10 15:49:50

Thanks guys, I am still working on it now that I blew the belt and am waiting for my Bikeman clutch and replacement belts. I dropped the fluid out of the front diff and it looked like a nice starbucks with triple cream. I have heard that using the wrong oil in the front diff can cause it to act up, so I'm sure adding water to the mix doesn't help. I don't seem to have trouble with the RWD (that I can tell) it just seems that the front kicks in when it feels like it. I also found a torn CV boot, torn steering boot and the rod end was shot and the little boot on that was wrecked as well, all on the driver side. :cry: the things you find after you buy a used machine...
On the plus side, I am already learning way more about this machine than I knew about my bulletproof Honda rubicon. The first thought I had after blowing the belt was that I'd have to get my Honda to pull this tank home, too bad I'd already sold it!
Can anyone give me a quick rundown on how to remove the front axle to replace the cv boot? It is the one closest to the diff, on the drivers side. Thanks, I'll post again when I can see if the oil change helps the diff issues.

If you PM me with your E-mail I could send some scans out of an earlier manual that would be the same procedure. It is to much to typeing to explain in detail on the site and they did not change the system till 2009. As for your four wheel system it is normal to go in and out of AWD while the switch is in AWD mode.

cusco · 2010-03-17 07:23:55

After a long wait :? the clutch kit finally arrived (doesn't help when they are supposed to ship USPS and they decide to send it UPS instead) I used the down time to change all the oil (thanks to RangerDale for all the info on this site for oil and filter substitutes) and as mentioned the front diff oil looked terrible. Last night after installing the clutch I went for a nice ride and from what I can see the front diff seems to be behaving now. It is a little harder to find some ice/snow to give it a good test as we are in the middle of a serious thaw! Bring on the spring...
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Com?te

#1 2010-02-01 11:51:20

Re: Help with diff issues

#2 2010-02-01 14:55:00

Re: Help with diff issues

#3 2010-03-08 14:33:22

Re: Help with diff issues

#4 2010-03-08 22:44:55

Re: Help with diff issues

#5 2010-03-10 11:13:54

Re: Help with diff issues

#6 2010-03-10 15:41:32

Re: Help with diff issues

#7 2010-03-10 15:49:50

Re: Help with diff issues

#8 2010-03-17 07:23:55

Re: Help with diff issues

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