Engine Knock, 2003 Ranger 500 4WD

rangerranger · 2009-05-31 17:17:33

Low engine hours and has excellent compression. Not sure if this noise is piston slap of lower end knock. Does not occur until cold engine has run for appox 20-seconds. Continues until engine is shut off and allowed to cool off. Re-crank (cold engine) and noise begins again after about 20-seconds. Oil pump?
Paul

RANGERDALEXP · 2009-05-31 18:44:41

On this one i need to know how loud the knock is and just a little more detail. try to isolate it by holding a large screwdriver to your ear and touching it around the block to pin point were the noise is. They sell a mechanics stethoscope at most auto parts stores and this i a great tool to have and is safer then the screwdriver method, Remember it could be coming from somewhere else like the driven clutch or something else like that. is there any metal in the oil, there is just not enough info to work with at this point for a engine with no hours :?: :idea: . One last thing, the 700 has a plug just by the oil filter that a gage can be hooked up, i would think the 500 should have one to so you can test the oil pressure :idea: .

rangerranger · 2009-06-01 09:26:10

How about this redneck oil pump test.......Remove oil filter, fill oil tank up, crank engine, watch for oil to come oil of block where fillter should be! But only for a few seconds, not until it runs dry.

RANGERDALEXP · 2009-06-01 11:16:02

That won't check the oil pressure :!: .

rangerranger · 2009-06-01 14:20:04

Just as you said, my local dealer said there is a port on the left side of the engine to check oil pressure. He says PSI should read 12-20, idle to 5500 RPM. I will also do the stetoscope test.

RANGERDALEXP · 2009-06-01 17:22:50

Keep me posted on how the test goes and let me know if there is any metal in the oil.

rangerranger · 2009-06-02 17:52:07

I did not see an oblivious plug or port to attach a 1/8" NPT fitting for the oil pressure test. So, with the the oil tank and oil filter removed I chose to crank the engine. Yep, thats correct, with no tank and the filter removed! Immediately oil shot out of the larger oil line. I shut of the engine to prevent damage. There is no evidence of metal shavings in the oil. I will put the tank and filter back on, fill with oil and post another result. Another question.....is there a synthetic oil that will mix with the Polaris brand? I wa told any full synthetic (0W-40W) will comply.

RANGERDALEXP · 2009-06-02 19:01:20

Well this topic has been gone over before and here is the post i did for oils and filters.

http://www.sidexsideforum.com/viewtopic.php?t=1096

As for the other post you did, an engine an tranny is only part of the change over needed to convert from the early 500 to the 700 like was posted earlier, you would need a donor ranger 700 XP to do the change over because you would need all the electronics from the donor to do the change over, ECM, ECU, Cables, Wiring Harness, and much more. The cost for the change over from Polaris would be cost preventive if you ordered from them. It would be much, much cheaper to just rebuild what you have. This is about the best advise i can give since i am not there to asses the problem personally.

Titan · 2009-06-02 19:59:35

Dont know if this will help but here is a link to a web site with microfiche for what i think is your machine. This will give you a good idea what it will cost to rebuild your motor. ( if you know what you need) It has a list of every part in the machine and where it goes.
best of luck

http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche.com … ype=12&A=2

rangerranger · 2009-06-05 14:41:30

UPDATE>>>Reinstalled the oil tank, new oil filter and fresh oil. As mentioned, ice cold engine cranks perfect. Will crank and idle without pulling out choke. Do not even have to step on the accelerator. However, hear is where the fun starts......After about 20 seconds the knock begins. When I remove oil tank cap, I can hear the noise inside the oil tank. When I get close to the engine it sounds like there is a marble bouncing around inside the crankcase. At this point my best guess is bolt head or nut is down there getting slapped around. What else could be in the crankcase? The odd thing here is that it cranks and runs perfect. Your thoughts?
Paul

RANGERDALEXP · 2009-06-05 17:45:41

Well Paul it sounds like you will need to pull the engine and tear it down to find out , there is no way of knowing what is down there and it should be done before any more damage is done :!: . If there is no metal in the oil it would not be bearings. It could be the wrest pin or other broken parts or something foreign that got in there. Even a broken crank or piston. Never less it will need to be taken apart to find out how bad it is :!: .

rangerranger · 2009-06-05 18:40:23

Yep, no choice but to pull. It may be a few weeks before I have time. Guess this is a good time for a cam, carb, mill the head, custom air tubes, clutch kit, and belt.
Thanks for the replies,
Paul

RANGERDALEXP · 2009-06-05 20:21:31

Go to bikeman and dirtydawg performance for any mods because they know what they are doing on this engine, Talk to them first before you do anything because they have tried it already, there is one guy that has used them on this site for the same engine and was very satisfied with the results and you can PM him if needed.

http://www.dirtydawgperformance.net/index.php

rangerranger · 2009-07-01 17:22:20

Check this out.......I wanted to try one more thing prior to pulling the engine. I removed the drive belt, cranked the engine, and NO NOISE. Sure, it will not move, but I now have to believe the noise is in the transmission.

RANGERDALEXP · 2009-07-04 14:22:53

On this one i need to know how loud the knock is and just a little more detail. try to isolate it by holding a large screwdriver to your ear and touching it around the block to pin point were the noise is. They sell a mechanics stethoscope at most auto parts stores and this i a great tool to have and is safer then the screwdriver method, Remember it could be coming from somewhere else like the driven clutch or something else like that. is there any metal in the oil, there is just not enough info to work with at this point for a engine with no hours :?: :idea: . One last thing, the 700 has a plug just by the oil filter that a gage can be hooked up, i would think the 500 should have one to so you can test the oil pressure :idea: .

Like i posted here at the beginning , Use a mechanics stethoscope and narrow down where it is. You need to put the drive belt back on and put it in gear so the transmission doesn't freewheel and if the noise is still there while in gear it could be the drive clutch or engine. If the noise is not there it could be either the driven clutch or the transmission :idea: .

#1 2009-05-31 17:17:33

Re: Engine Knock, 2003 Ranger 500 4WD

#2 2009-05-31 18:44:41

Re: Engine Knock, 2003 Ranger 500 4WD

#3 2009-06-01 09:26:10

Re: Engine Knock, 2003 Ranger 500 4WD

#4 2009-06-01 11:16:02

Re: Engine Knock, 2003 Ranger 500 4WD

#5 2009-06-01 14:20:04

Re: Engine Knock, 2003 Ranger 500 4WD

#6 2009-06-01 17:22:50

Re: Engine Knock, 2003 Ranger 500 4WD

#7 2009-06-02 17:52:07

Re: Engine Knock, 2003 Ranger 500 4WD

#8 2009-06-02 19:01:20

Re: Engine Knock, 2003 Ranger 500 4WD

#9 2009-06-02 19:59:35

Re: Engine Knock, 2003 Ranger 500 4WD

#10 2009-06-05 14:41:30

Re: Engine Knock, 2003 Ranger 500 4WD

#11 2009-06-05 17:45:41

Re: Engine Knock, 2003 Ranger 500 4WD

#12 2009-06-05 18:40:23

Re: Engine Knock, 2003 Ranger 500 4WD

#13 2009-06-05 20:21:31

Re: Engine Knock, 2003 Ranger 500 4WD

#14 2009-07-01 17:22:20

Re: Engine Knock, 2003 Ranger 500 4WD

#15 2009-07-04 14:22:53

Re: Engine Knock, 2003 Ranger 500 4WD

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