hard to get into gear

grtrnd1 · 2009-07-06 18:36:26

Hi everyone. I've got an 08 rzr that I bought used that has just over 1000 miles on it. The guy I bought if off of must've just washed and waxed it and that's it. Other than that I think he just beat it to death. It looks like new, but that's it. I've been getting the bugs out of it as I go along, thanks to alot of help with some great people here on this forum. Now for a new problem. For the last couple days, I've noticed a slight squeeling once in a while coming from in the clutch belt housing. It would only happen at an idle. This morning I had all intentions of taking the plastic housing off and washing it out. I haven't had it in any mud since I bought it. I run it in low gear below 10 mile an hour. I haven't abused it at all in the month and a half that i've owned it. Anyway, I got up this morning to go feed the cows and I had a hard time getting it into gear. It would want to lunge foward when put into gear and you let your foot off the brake it would want to go on it's own. The idle is set at 1150. It does this in all gears. I never had any trouble with going into gear until now. I took the cover off and it was fairly clean with some dust and surprisingly pretty well clean. I started the bike up and everything was working like it was supposed too. The belt looks great, the pulley's look good, no broken springs, no bluing anywhere. There was no slop up and down or in and out on either drive or driven pulleys. I watched the belt as it was at an idle and both drive and driven pulleys were turning at Neutral and Park. When I jerked it into Reverse I could hear squeeling coming from inside the pulley on the engine side. I took the belt off and seen the Non-Braking Bearing was very hard to turn. I tryed to turn it and it just acted like it was wore out. I could slide it back and forth about an 1/8 of an inch and I could only turn it a little one way and back the other and it wouldn't go any further. So I shined a flashlight down inside there and watched that bearing with the bike idling in gear and it wasn't turning, Im assuming that this bearing is bad and is a main factor in my trouble. The bearing and shim is fairly cheap, but how do I get the clutch cover off. I have a set of 3 and 4 jaw pullers, will they work? It looks like it should just pull right off the shaft. I really don't want to go to a dealer for help cause I can't afford it right now. Thanks for your help in this matter. Between TPS problems, fuel pump, voltage regulator relocation and a flat tire, this thing is driving me insane, But I'm not giving up. :?

RANGERDALEXP · 2009-07-06 19:58:32

Well this is what the problem is and what to do with this new info. The Polaris primary clutch is RPM dependent and if the RPM is to high or the primary clutch spring is weak then drive belt will start to engage and it will be hard to go into gear, I had mentioned this on your other post on idle adjustment without a rpm gage. there is three options here. Back the idle down to where the transmission shifts easy. Replace the primary spring that is not tired. Do what everyone else does at some point and do the clutch kit that replaces the stock stuff and includes a stiffer then stock primary spring. All in all it should be serviced and looked over anyhow to see how the belt is doing. Now and what is happening on the other problems with the charging issues. It will all come to an end and you will have a great ride again once all the issues are fixed. I see light at the end of the tunnel .

grtrnd1 · 2009-07-06 20:11:47

Thanks again Rangerdalexp. I understand what your saying a little bit. When you take the belt off and look down in between the two halves where the belt rides. You've got the back half and the front half. The belt is in there all the way to the bottom riding on what the service manual call a "Non Braking Bearing". When you give it throttle both halves come together and the driven clutch spreads apart and the belt sinks into it. The belt doesnt slip at all. I haven't had it slip one bit. It engages nice as far as throttle response goes, and the engine brake is phenominal as long as you keep your rpms above around 1300. I just noticed the "Non Braking Bearing" turns real rough and locks up on the shaft. When it locks up on the shaft that is when it is hard to get into and out of gear. I didn't know how to take the drive clutch off. I was going to try a three jawed puller, but I didn't want to break it. I am off work right now and am wanting to go the cheapest route which is 31 dollars for a replacement bearing. I have read somewhat on better clutch setups and heard good things about Dirty Dawg Performance clutch which seems to be around 345.00. I can do that after I get back to work, but I don't want to wait another month. I'm getting itchy. As per the regulator problem, It seems to charge great until the regulator gets hot. I am just pondering the idea of cutting, splicing, soldering, shrink tubing 8 wires now or wait till I get back to work and buy a 90 dollars plug in harness. It's all about money right now.

RANGERDALEXP · 2009-07-06 22:25:57

Have what you said and will have answer tomorrow.

grtrnd1 · 2009-07-07 07:35:00

Thanks again my friend, I greatly appreciate all the help I can get. I too do see the light at the end of the tunnel, especially with great help like I'm getting here.

grtrnd1 · 2009-07-07 09:56:02

I got the drive clutch off. The "non braking bearing" would only turn a little bit one way then the other. I blowed air in it and tryed cleaning it out the best I could. It will now turn, but you can tell that it's bad. Does an aftermarket clutch setup like Dirty Dawgs or others a complete bolt on unit or do I have to dissasemble the Polaris unit and put in aftermarket, better parts to build a unit?

RANGERDALEXP · 2009-07-07 12:32:17

I had to re-read all your post and now i understand what you are saying. That part almost never goes bad but this is what i would try but first thing first. Is there any visible damage to the bearing :?: , If not I would blow the dirt out with brake cleaner and use air so all the trapped dirt can be washed out, then lube the bearing with a dry lubricant but make sure you keep it off the sheaves, clean the sheaves with a clean rag and brake cleaner and see what happens. as for the drive and driven clutch spinning in neutral that is normal but the the test is if you can stop the driven clutch easily with your hand while it is running it is good but use caution here on this. as for replacing the bearing you will need to buy or make the tool to remove the inner cage.

grtrnd1 · 2009-07-07 16:14:51

Thanks again rangerdalexp. I took the drive clutch off earlier today, and couldn't hardly turn the non braking bearing a full turn, So I took it out to the garage and blew it out the best I could, and I did, but probably shouldn't of, sprayed wd-40 on top of the bearing and kept working it back and forth and blew it out some more. Now I can turn the bearing by hand. Some dirt did come out of it, and I cleaned the shivs up. There is no visible damage to nothing in there. Now when I put it in park or neutral I can hold the driven clutch with one hand, but you can feel it once in a while want to jerk out of your hand. It's not the sheevs wanting to grab the belt either. The sheevs look like they are about an 1/8 inch maximum away from the belt. While holding the driven clutch you can watch the non braking bearing kind of stick when the driven clutch wants to jerk out of your hand, But you can hold it. You can actually hold the driven clutch with one finger until it "catches" . The bearing seems really noisy to me. When you hold the throttle open and get the belt to the top of the drive shiv you can see through the spider cage and watch the bearing move back and forth about an 1/8 of an inch. I see a washer on the front side but I don't notice one on the back. Like I said, I can hold the driven clutch with one hand pretty easy, but the bearing seems noisy to me. I just didn't know if it would be ok to run like that or not. I'd like to upgrade to a better deal later, but don't want to ruin anything in there now. I don't know how noisy these bearings are supposed to be. I understand too that with the cover off it's going to be noisy. But I definately can spin the bearing easy now. I called out dealership and they said that is was like 50 bucks for the bearing and 2 washers and a spacer, and 25 dollars to install it. Which isn't bad, but I don't want to spend the money if what is going on is just misneglected maintenance and just needed a good cleaning.

#1 2009-07-06 18:36:26

Re: hard to get into gear

#2 2009-07-06 19:58:32

Re: hard to get into gear

#3 2009-07-06 20:11:47

Re: hard to get into gear

#4 2009-07-06 22:25:57

Re: hard to get into gear

#5 2009-07-07 07:35:00

Re: hard to get into gear

#6 2009-07-07 09:56:02

Re: hard to get into gear

#7 2009-07-07 12:32:17

Re: hard to get into gear

#8 2009-07-07 16:14:51

Re: hard to get into gear

Board footer