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hello does any when no when you adjust your valves for the first time?also does anyone no what the adjustment is and how to do it?i have a 2006 rhino 450,any and all advice would be great,thanks
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I was told 30 hrs initially and about every 100 hrs after that. I am interested in valve adjustment also - don't trust my local dealer to do anything... anyone know the details (clearances, etc.)? Mine is a 660.
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i was recently told after first 10 hrs due to intake valve tightening up. i have a local dealer mechanic i met 10 yrs ago through my auto dealership that does mine. i am actually at 21 hrs and got my ass chewed by him for "knowing better". hell what do i know i work on dodges!!! anyways when i talk to him this week i will ask details and get em to ya guys!!
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The manual says to adjust them at the initial 20 hour service, and then again at 150 hours, and every 150 hours after that. The intake valves on the five valve 660 heads tend to get too tight, so it is important that you adjust them. We left for vacation when our Rhino had 17 hours on it, and did more riding on vacation than I thought we would, so we didn't get back home until it had 32 hours on it. I have to remove my roll cage and my bed to get to my exhaust valves, because of the design of the aftermarket cage and rear bumper I am using. It is much more difficult for me to get to the valves than it is to adjust them. On a stock Rhino it would be the easiest thing in the world to adjust the valves.
When I did mine the intakes had tightened up to the point that the smallest feeler gauge I had would not go in (.002), so they were way too tight. The specs for the 660 are .005 on the intake and .007 on the exhaust. My exhaust valves were still in spec. The Rhino definitely runs better after a valve adjustment. It is noticeably more free reving, and doesn't vibrate as bad. I was surprised that I noticed a difference, but I did. It is definitely worth doing.
2012 Polaris Rzr XP 900
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Thanks 3TV. So all I will need is feeler gauge and other standard tools? Do you replace the gasket? Or is it re-usable? How do you rotate the crank for position? 20 questions... :?
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Badley,
Let me know and you can borrow or make copies of the service manual on it. I need to do mine to one of these days.
Ryan
Are we camping yet?
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Thanks Ryan. If I could get a copy of the valve adjustment procedure that is all I need right now. I would like to get a service manual - where did you get yours? Also want to buy one of your storage boxes - email me details - price, availabilty, etc. - I could make a run to SLC, or we could meet up for a ride. My weekend kind of busy, but a Sat. morning ride up AF sounds cool.
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Check out my reply(s) under the "Service Manual?" thread!
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Badley,
To get to the access cover for the timing marks you need to remove the fan on the passenger side of the engine. You do not need to disconnect it from its rubber hose, just unbolt the four bolts holding it on the engine and move it to the side enough to see the access plug. Use a quarter to remove the plug. You can then shine a flash light across the gas tank and into the access hole, and you can see the timing marks. Remove the spark plug and turn the engine counter clockwise until the center of the three timing marks is lined up. Then adjust the valves to spec. You do not need new gaskets. Its pretty simple once you get in there and start looking at it.
3TV
2012 Polaris Rzr XP 900
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Thanks 3TV,
I actually got a copy of the service manual and checked my valves late last week. I removed the fan housing and fan - a little easier to turn it over but probably not necessary like you said. Covers have o-ring type seals, no gaskets (sweet). Feeler gauge access is tight - especially on the exhaust valves.
My biggest dilema was finding TDC on the exhaust stroke. Manual says to line up the timing mark and check the valves - if they are tight, rotate counter clockwize 1 turn and there should be a little play - adjust valves. Well, if all your valves are tight how can you be sure you are TDC on the exhaust stroke :?: I had absolutely no play (clearance) on any of my valves. So I assumed I could watch for the exhaust valves to open on the piston upstroke - line up the mark and be good - opinions?
Valve adjustment tool not necessary, I improvised with a small crescent. Adjusted my valves to spec - well almost... started it up and "tapity tapity" - used english number instead of metric number on the feeler gauge :oops: Did I mention it was hot :cry: I will find time to do it again this week... :?
3TV - if you want to see the 3 pages of the shop manual (pdf) on valve adjustment - PM me your email address.
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