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I thank you for the vote of confidence. I've already worked on it more than I've wanted to. I can't believe the problems I've had. It seems like it's stuff that nobody else has had trouble with too. I've definately learned alot with you guys' help and I greatly appreciate it. I'd like to come to this forum soon and try to help others and to just say Hi, instead of trying to figure out what to do. The dealer called me earlier and said my part is done, so I'm going over to get it tonight and get my torque wrench out and do it right this time. I talked to dirty dawg this morning and I think after I get back to work I'm going to get him to build me a brand new clutch setup, he seems to be a really nice guy to talk to on the phone. I wish I would've been back to work already and I would've just dealt with him, but this dang shoulder's got me off for a little longer.
Lol... I'm glad it already has a top. I'm just worried about this clutch cover he sold me. I asked him twice about it being balanced and he assured me that as long as the x's are lined up on the cover and drive clutch it's already balanced. I don't know. It will be in the back of my mind. He is supposed to be the professional mechanic, and I'm just the consumer.
Well I got some good news out of all this turmoil I guess. I went to our other local Polaris dealer and he had a clutch cover off of an older bike. I asked him about balancing it and he said as long as the X's are matched up when you bolt it on, it'll be ok. Since I don't know I have to take his word for it. But,, anyway, I got the clutch cover, new bearing, two new washers, a spacer, overnight delivery,(which he said he throwed in for free, on somone elses bill) Installation and I can pick it up tomorrow night or early Saturday morning, out the door for 180 bucks. So,,, get this back together and HOPEFULLY able to enjoy it for a while. I spend another dime or mess with this bike much longer my wife is going to make me put my blanket and pillow in it and stay outside. lol
I will do that, thank you for your help.
Ok, thanks for the reply. I am broke down right now till I get the clutch drive assembly looked at, the dealer is going to take it apart and replace the non braking bearing and a couple washers and a spacer, and check everything else in it while it's apart. Just for future reference, if this thing is running rich, what is the proper adjustment to do to correct it? If it is running lean, what is the proper adjustment to correct it also? I'll probably be down for a little over a week, They won't order the parts till Friday and it'll take em a few days to get the parts, and put em in. I'll let you know what I find when I get it back together. Thanks for all your help.
I just took the one plug out directly behind the seat and checked it out for you. It is black. It looks rich to me. How often would you recommend that I take them out and check them? What is an AF gauge :?: If it were lean, what would the plug look like? Like I said right now, the one is showing black, electrode and all. The gap is set at 35 thousandths., and the plugs are new,, NGK BKR7E. Should I try to clean the black off of it and run it some more and check it again. Thank you.
Thanks again rangerdalexp. I took the drive clutch off earlier today, and couldn't hardly turn the non braking bearing a full turn, So I took it out to the garage and blew it out the best I could, and I did, but probably shouldn't of, sprayed wd-40 on top of the bearing and kept working it back and forth and blew it out some more. Now I can turn the bearing by hand. Some dirt did come out of it, and I cleaned the shivs up. There is no visible damage to nothing in there. Now when I put it in park or neutral I can hold the driven clutch with one hand, but you can feel it once in a while want to jerk out of your hand. It's not the sheevs wanting to grab the belt either. The sheevs look like they are about an 1/8 inch maximum away from the belt. While holding the driven clutch you can watch the non braking bearing kind of stick when the driven clutch wants to jerk out of your hand, But you can hold it. You can actually hold the driven clutch with one finger until it "catches" . The bearing seems really noisy to me. When you hold the throttle open and get the belt to the top of the drive shiv you can see through the spider cage and watch the bearing move back and forth about an 1/8 of an inch. I see a washer on the front side but I don't notice one on the back. Like I said, I can hold the driven clutch with one hand pretty easy, but the bearing seems noisy to me. I just didn't know if it would be ok to run like that or not. I'd like to upgrade to a better deal later, but don't want to ruin anything in there now. I don't know how noisy these bearings are supposed to be. I understand too that with the cover off it's going to be noisy. But I definately can spin the bearing easy now. I called out dealership and they said that is was like 50 bucks for the bearing and 2 washers and a spacer, and 25 dollars to install it. Which isn't bad, but I don't want to spend the money if what is going on is just misneglected maintenance and just needed a good cleaning.
I got the drive clutch off. The "non braking bearing" would only turn a little bit one way then the other. I blowed air in it and tryed cleaning it out the best I could. It will now turn, but you can tell that it's bad. Does an aftermarket clutch setup like Dirty Dawgs or others a complete bolt on unit or do I have to dissasemble the Polaris unit and put in aftermarket, better parts to build a unit?
Thanks again my friend, I greatly appreciate all the help I can get. I too do see the light at the end of the tunnel, especially with great help like I'm getting here.
Thanks again Rangerdalexp. I understand what your saying a little bit. When you take the belt off and look down in between the two halves where the belt rides. You've got the back half and the front half. The belt is in there all the way to the bottom riding on what the service manual call a "Non Braking Bearing". When you give it throttle both halves come together and the driven clutch spreads apart and the belt sinks into it. The belt doesnt slip at all. I haven't had it slip one bit. It engages nice as far as throttle response goes, and the engine brake is phenominal as long as you keep your rpms above around 1300. I just noticed the "Non Braking Bearing" turns real rough and locks up on the shaft. When it locks up on the shaft that is when it is hard to get into and out of gear. I didn't know how to take the drive clutch off. I was going to try a three jawed puller, but I didn't want to break it. I am off work right now and am wanting to go the cheapest route which is 31 dollars for a replacement bearing. I have read somewhat on better clutch setups and heard good things about Dirty Dawg Performance clutch which seems to be around 345.00. I can do that after I get back to work, but I don't want to wait another month. I'm getting itchy. As per the regulator problem, It seems to charge great until the regulator gets hot. I am just pondering the idea of cutting, splicing, soldering, shrink tubing 8 wires now or wait till I get back to work and buy a 90 dollars plug in harness. It's all about money right now.
Hi everyone. I've got an 08 rzr that I bought used that has just over 1000 miles on it. The guy I bought if off of must've just washed and waxed it and that's it. Other than that I think he just beat it to death. It looks like new, but that's it. I've been getting the bugs out of it as I go along, thanks to alot of help with some great people here on this forum. Now for a new problem. For the last couple days, I've noticed a slight squeeling once in a while coming from in the clutch belt housing. It would only happen at an idle. This morning I had all intentions of taking the plastic housing off and washing it out. I haven't had it in any mud since I bought it. I run it in low gear below 10 mile an hour. I haven't abused it at all in the month and a half that i've owned it. Anyway, I got up this morning to go feed the cows and I had a hard time getting it into gear. It would want to lunge foward when put into gear and you let your foot off the brake it would want to go on it's own. The idle is set at 1150. It does this in all gears. I never had any trouble with going into gear until now. I took the cover off and it was fairly clean with some dust and surprisingly pretty well clean. I started the bike up and everything was working like it was supposed too. The belt looks great, the pulley's look good, no broken springs, no bluing anywhere. There was no slop up and down or in and out on either drive or driven pulleys. I watched the belt as it was at an idle and both drive and driven pulleys were turning at Neutral and Park. When I jerked it into Reverse I could hear squeeling coming from inside the pulley on the engine side. I took the belt off and seen the Non-Braking Bearing was very hard to turn. I tryed to turn it and it just acted like it was wore out. I could slide it back and forth about an 1/8 of an inch and I could only turn it a little one way and back the other and it wouldn't go any further. So I shined a flashlight down inside there and watched that bearing with the bike idling in gear and it wasn't turning, Im assuming that this bearing is bad and is a main factor in my trouble. The bearing and shim is fairly cheap, but how do I get the clutch cover off. I have a set of 3 and 4 jaw pullers, will they work? It looks like it should just pull right off the shaft. I really don't want to go to a dealer for help cause I can't afford it right now. Thanks for your help in this matter. Between TPS problems, fuel pump, voltage regulator relocation and a flat tire, this thing is driving me insane, But I'm not giving up. :?
I was having trouble with my 08 RZR, wasn't running right, no power. I was on the forum asking about the problem and guys were helping me out greatly trying to figure out the problem. Long story short, it ended up being a bad fuel pump. I called my local Polaris dealer, they told me that it wasn't a servicable item and I had to purchase a whole new tank and assembly, It was 460.00. With advice of Rangerdalexp, I took the fuel pump assembly out of the tank and dissasembled it. It is very easy to come apart. Had it apart in about 20 minutes with the fuel pump in my hand. I went to my local auto parts store and handed the pump to them. They ran the numbers on the pump and can't get it. We tryed matching up a few and nothing. The RZR needs 39 pound + or - 3 pound to run. I have a 1993 Jeep Wrangler with a four cylinder in it that I know runs at 39 pound. I asked the salesman to give me a fuel pump for a 93 Wrangler and to no avail, it is EXACTLY the same pump. It is an Airtex E8335 pump. It is the same, the wiring plug is identical and it will fit in the existing Polaris plastic cage and the Polaris fuel filter will even fit on it also. Order an Airtex E8335 pump and put it back together and happy riding. Thanks to all the people who helped me get this thing going again. I greatly appreciated it.
I adjusted the idle up to 1150 from the D-shaped screw on the throttle body. It was charging over 13.5 volts at an idle with the headlights on when we left. It charges over 14 volts with no load. We took another midnight run through the hollows, and I run in low range the whole time cause it's rough and alot of crick crossings. Everything was going great until 7 miles into the ride the battery gauge came up on the dash flashing. We pulled over and I checked the voltage through the on dash diagnostics, and it says 11.7 at idle. I shut the bike off and felt the voltage regulator, it was so hot I couldn't touch it for more than a second. We sat there for about 45 minutes wasting some time, and the regulator was cool to the touch, so we took off for the house. By the time I got home the regulator was really hot again. I am going to move it up in front like you guys are saying. Other than that the fuel pump seems to be working great, and the fuel gauge seems accurate. I haven't had it below half tank yet to see about where empty on gauge and empty on tank work together. But when the tank is full the gauge is showing full. I'll keep ya posted on the regualtor in a day or so. Thanks for all the help fellows.
Thank you ,, I set the D shaped screw to .735. It was idling real low last night, but today it is idling fine. What should these actually idle at anyway? As for the voltage problem. I let it idle this morning for about an hour, and heard the fan running non stop. I went out and looked and the voltage was flashing. I checked the voltage with the voltmeter and was getting 11.7 at an idle and about 13 when you brought the rpm's up at the battery. When the fan isn't running it stays about 12.5 at an idle with the headlights on and up to13.7 when at higher rpms. Something I noticed too, was when you bump the throttle up with your foot to about 2500rpm and hold it steady, the fan will kick on and run for about a minute and kick off, and a little bit later it will kick on again, and off about a minute later. (which seems very normal and logical to me). What I don't understand is that when the bike is idling, after a while the fan will kick on like normal, and it wont kick off. it just stays running non stop until you bump the rpm up to a cerain point. Is this normal that these fans run and wont kick off at an idle? Last night we ran it for 16 mile with no problem. The only time it started the low voltage indicator flashing was when we were going down this real long steep hill with headlights on, fan running, foot on the brake, for about a solid 10 or 15 minute descent. As soon as I brought the bike up from an idle it went out. As for the hot regulator I put a fan directly on it, blowing cool air and it didn't seem to help. It cooled it down, but the voltage was still low with everything on.
No, nothing but factory headlights. It was dark and I couldn't check it with my voltmeter at the battery. I went to the diagnostic screen on the dash. I flipped through it until I came to the battery voltage and with the key on and not running it showed 12v. Then I started it up and turned on the headlights, foot on the brake, fan came on, and watched it on the dash drop to 11.7v. I then bumped up the idle to about 1200 and it came up to 12.5 volts. I then pushed it up to about 3000 rpm and it went up to 13 volts all recorded from watching the dash. I know I checked it with a voltmeter alot this week while idling and it was always above 12.5. It never done this until the end of our run. Our run of 17 mile was all in the dark. I was reading several posts about voltage regulators getting hot from being mounted under the seat. they make a relocation kit to move it out to the radiator, but I bet that 11 foot long wiring harness isn't cheap. Let me know what you think. If i loosen up the tps and move it while idling will the idling come up on it or will I have to adjust the idling from the cable. Like I said I didn't even touch the baseline, I just set the .735 intake. hooked it up adjusted the cable because I didn't have any freeplay in it. I adjusted the cable to get about an eighth inch of freeplay and left it alone. Thanks you again.