Need Help

grtrnd1 · 2009-07-03 11:57:31

Great news. Here's what I done. I went down to our local auto parts store and gave him the numbers for Airtex E8229. Cost is 139.00 The pump was the same but a little different on the plug. The plug may have worked, (I forgot to take the wiring harness with me). I own a 93 Jeep Wrangler that does carry 39 pound of pressure. I told him to give me that pump. That pump number is Aritex E8335. It is EXACTLY the same, plug and all. The price on it was 112.00 with a one year warranty. I came home hooked it up and turned the key the gauge went to 40 pound and I lifted up the fuel assembly cover and could hear the excess fuel returning back into the tank through the internal regulator. I started it up and took off out the road for a short 5 mile trip with speeds up to 50 MPH and no hesitation, no backfire, extremely powerful. I noticed it idles a little low when it's cold. (850rpm) When it warms up it seems ok (1150rpm) Do you think I need to readjust the TPS and air intake valve now that I have all my pressure? So from now on anyone who has fuel pump problems needs to order an Airtex E8335 pump and it will fit exactly right into your existing cage. Piss on Polaris and there 450.00 fuel tank assembly. You can even use the Polaris fuel filter. This Airtex pump even says Bosch right on it. So for right now, she's running good. I hope this is fixed. I want to thank you so much for your cooperation and your help in tracking this problem down and helping me get it fixed. So from here in the Appalachian Mountains of Southeastern Ohio I want to tell you and your family to have a great fourth of July, and I will be in touch in the future to say hi, and try to help anyone else I can on the forum. Thank you again. You are definately a 5 star mechanic.

RANGERDALEXP · 2009-07-03 12:38:17

I am really glade to hear the problem is finally fixed and taking the pump down and matching it up would correct yours and a lot of other peoples RZR fuel pump problems. Is the fuel gage still accurate :?: . Oh and yes I would readjust the TPS because you now have the proper fuel pressure and that will change things a little :!: . Since You fixed the problem you should do the thread posting on "Aftermarket Polaris RzR Fuel pump Replacement" on this site so others will know out there. .

grtrnd1 · 2009-07-03 22:15:57

We took the utv out on a run tonight for 17 mile. The backfiring quit. It ran great. It missed one time when we took off, but I blamed it on it being cold. It didn't do it again. We adjusted the air flow at .735. I never touched the tps, but I think I'm going to tomorrow, cause it's idling pretty low 950 to 1000rpm. The only thing I noticed it done tonight toward the end of our run was we were going down a long hill about 500 hundred yards straight down through the woods with the headlights on fan running, foot on the brake and I noticed the dash lights started flashing and the little battery appeared. I dropped it into low and raised the RPM up and after a little bit the battery went out. We got to the bottom and turned around and decided we better get up out of there and on the way up it done it again. It didn't affect the way the bike ran at high or low rpm. It would come and go. We were about a mile and a half away from home when we came out of the woods and I run it up above 4000 rpm all the way and it never came on, but came on again when I pulled in the yard. I put it on the diagnostic screen and put it on voltage and started the bike. At an idle (950rpm) with the headlights on, foot on the brake, back up light on, it was showing 11.7 volts. step up the idle to 1200 and it would show 12.5 volts. Where is the alternator on this thing and what could I check or do to see this problem? The fuel gauge seems to be accurate too.

RANGERDALEXP · 2009-07-03 22:39:54

You may always get a little popping out of the exhaust going down the grade due to UN burnt fuel in the exhaust. As for the 11.2 volts that is low and a fully charged battery should not show that unless you are pulling to much amps and the stator and regulator is not keeping up. first thing first is adjust the TPS again and i will run the numbers and have an answer tomorrow. What i need to know is were are you testing for the known 11.2 voltage, that will help. also are you running anything after market other then what came with the factory unit power wise.

grtrnd1 · 2009-07-03 22:52:17

No, nothing but factory headlights. It was dark and I couldn't check it with my voltmeter at the battery. I went to the diagnostic screen on the dash. I flipped through it until I came to the battery voltage and with the key on and not running it showed 12v. Then I started it up and turned on the headlights, foot on the brake, fan came on, and watched it on the dash drop to 11.7v. I then bumped up the idle to about 1200 and it came up to 12.5 volts. I then pushed it up to about 3000 rpm and it went up to 13 volts all recorded from watching the dash. I know I checked it with a voltmeter alot this week while idling and it was always above 12.5. It never done this until the end of our run. Our run of 17 mile was all in the dark. I was reading several posts about voltage regulators getting hot from being mounted under the seat. they make a relocation kit to move it out to the radiator, but I bet that 11 foot long wiring harness isn't cheap. Let me know what you think. If i loosen up the tps and move it while idling will the idling come up on it or will I have to adjust the idling from the cable. Like I said I didn't even touch the baseline, I just set the .735 intake. hooked it up adjusted the cable because I didn't have any freeplay in it. I adjusted the cable to get about an eighth inch of freeplay and left it alone. Thanks you again.

Titan · 2009-07-04 08:22:39

I was reading several posts about voltage regulators getting hot from being mounted under the seat. they make a relocation kit to move it out to the radiator, but I bet that 11 foot long wiring harness isn't cheap.

I found this that says the wire harness was under $50 when it first came out but couldnt find anything new on it. The mount for the regulator was under $3.
http://www.quadcrazy.com/atvforum/utv-f … rness.html

RANGERDALEXP · 2009-07-04 10:25:05

I would go with what titan said and relocate the regulator with the kit. As for adjusting the idle were are you adjusting it from :?: . It is suppose to be done from the little half moon screw on the throttle body that requires a special driver that i had to make. It cant be done on the the cable. Here is the link that Titan put on before on the regulator problem and put a full charge on the battery as soon as you can.

http://www.utvguide.net/rzr_voltage_reg … cation.htm

grtrnd1 · 2009-07-04 11:46:12

Thank you ,, I set the D shaped screw to .735. It was idling real low last night, but today it is idling fine. What should these actually idle at anyway? As for the voltage problem. I let it idle this morning for about an hour, and heard the fan running non stop. I went out and looked and the voltage was flashing. I checked the voltage with the voltmeter and was getting 11.7 at an idle and about 13 when you brought the rpm's up at the battery. When the fan isn't running it stays about 12.5 at an idle with the headlights on and up to13.7 when at higher rpms. Something I noticed too, was when you bump the throttle up with your foot to about 2500rpm and hold it steady, the fan will kick on and run for about a minute and kick off, and a little bit later it will kick on again, and off about a minute later. (which seems very normal and logical to me). What I don't understand is that when the bike is idling, after a while the fan will kick on like normal, and it wont kick off. it just stays running non stop until you bump the rpm up to a cerain point. Is this normal that these fans run and wont kick off at an idle? Last night we ran it for 16 mile with no problem. The only time it started the low voltage indicator flashing was when we were going down this real long steep hill with headlights on, fan running, foot on the brake, for about a solid 10 or 15 minute descent. As soon as I brought the bike up from an idle it went out. As for the hot regulator I put a fan directly on it, blowing cool air and it didn't seem to help. It cooled it down, but the voltage was still low with everything on.

RANGERDALEXP · 2009-07-04 12:00:49

You could maybe have a bad voltage regulator and Polaris has had issues with the 2008 location and moved it. yours could be bad because it has ran hot all of its life. The stator does not put full output till the RPM are up and very little at idle. low engine RPM can cause a charge light and turning the idle up could fix the problem. I would relocate the regulator as stated and put a full charge on the battery and raise the idle high enough that it doesn't go into gear hard. The RPM is in the manual and should be set with a meter if you have one but doing it by feel is good enough. Voltage at idle should be 13.5 or higher and With no load 14.5 to 14.8 at cruising speed. Engine Idle is 1150 RPM.

grtrnd1 · 2009-07-05 10:05:57

I adjusted the idle up to 1150 from the D-shaped screw on the throttle body. It was charging over 13.5 volts at an idle with the headlights on when we left. It charges over 14 volts with no load. We took another midnight run through the hollows, and I run in low range the whole time cause it's rough and alot of crick crossings. Everything was going great until 7 miles into the ride the battery gauge came up on the dash flashing. We pulled over and I checked the voltage through the on dash diagnostics, and it says 11.7 at idle. I shut the bike off and felt the voltage regulator, it was so hot I couldn't touch it for more than a second. We sat there for about 45 minutes wasting some time, and the regulator was cool to the touch, so we took off for the house. By the time I got home the regulator was really hot again. I am going to move it up in front like you guys are saying. Other than that the fuel pump seems to be working great, and the fuel gauge seems accurate. I haven't had it below half tank yet to see about where empty on gauge and empty on tank work together. But when the tank is full the gauge is showing full. I'll keep ya posted on the regualtor in a day or so. Thanks for all the help fellows.

RANGERDALEXP · 2009-07-05 11:37:59

I found this a little bit interesting.
VOLTAGE REGULATOR SKU: 4011925 SUBSTITUTED BY 4012384 $86.31.
Wounder why they updated the part unless there was a problem with it :?: .

RANGERDALEXP · 2009-07-07 16:36:52

Just for safety sake since you have done all that work on the TPS and Fuel Pump i would like you to keep an eye on how the plugs are burning since you do not have a AF gauge and all that work was done blind, you do not want it to run lean and hurt the engine.

grtrnd1 · 2009-07-07 18:08:44

I just took the one plug out directly behind the seat and checked it out for you. It is black. It looks rich to me. How often would you recommend that I take them out and check them? What is an AF gauge :?: If it were lean, what would the plug look like? Like I said right now, the one is showing black, electrode and all. The gap is set at 35 thousandths., and the plugs are new,, NGK BKR7E. Should I try to clean the black off of it and run it some more and check it again. Thank you.

RANGERDALEXP · 2009-07-07 19:03:26

It is safer rich but yes clean both plugs and put another 40 miles on it. Lean would be white and a good plug should be tan to brown with maybe a tad of black. what is on the plug now maybe from all the tuning and an AF gauge is what measures what the air fuel ratio is and reads it out of the tail pipe with an O2 sensor. A lot of the guys install them to adjust for proper air fuel when adding a fuel controller for modifications on there engines and the exhaust and to tune them better to get around EPA stuff. they are a good tool to make sure that the fuel curve or jetting is set properly. Polaris RZRs tend to run rich at idle and low end and a little too lean at top end.

grtrnd1 · 2009-07-07 20:48:26

Ok, thanks for the reply. I am broke down right now till I get the clutch drive assembly looked at, the dealer is going to take it apart and replace the non braking bearing and a couple washers and a spacer, and check everything else in it while it's apart. Just for future reference, if this thing is running rich, what is the proper adjustment to do to correct it? If it is running lean, what is the proper adjustment to correct it also? I'll probably be down for a little over a week, They won't order the parts till Friday and it'll take em a few days to get the parts, and put em in. I'll let you know what I find when I get it back together. Thanks for all your help.

#46 2009-07-03 11:57:31

Re: Need Help

#47 2009-07-03 12:38:17

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#48 2009-07-03 22:15:57

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#49 2009-07-03 22:39:54

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#50 2009-07-03 22:52:17

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#51 2009-07-04 08:22:39

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#52 2009-07-04 10:25:05

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#54 2009-07-04 12:00:49

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#55 2009-07-05 10:05:57

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#56 2009-07-05 11:37:59

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#58 2009-07-07 18:08:44

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#59 2009-07-07 19:03:26

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#60 2009-07-07 20:48:26

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