No.  I have never been told to use only Yamaha oil filters.  I have used 3rd party oil filters on my Raptor since in was new in '01.  I have also used them on the Rhino for a year now.  Between the years of owning these two bikes, I have had a Honda Rincon for 3 years and I used K&N paper filters on it.  Good filters and less than half the price for a OEM filter from Honda.  I changed the oil in both the Raptor and Rhino this past weekend and used the Bosch #3323 on both.  The thing to look out for when using some other brand (SOB) is when looking at the inside of the filter, the metal piece needs to be recessed enough to clear the large gland nut on the mounting plate of the engine.  Some will not fit flush and will not let the rubber gasket seal completely against the block.  The one I took off of the Rhino this time was from Parts Master and I could see a very fine line where it had been up against the nut.  I bought it while in a small town where there was only one parts house.  It did not leak but I could see where I had tightened it up against it.  The thing I like about the Bosch and some of the others is that it is about 2" longer than the stocker.  Years ago, when I began looking to find a replacement for my Raptor, I tracked down the thread sizes on the Yamaha filter and crossed it with other brands.  I originally was using a A/C Delco but they became hard to find.  I think the Bosch 3323 is listed for a '96 Mazda V6 mini-van.  If you are concerned about the filtering of some of the other brands, then I would stay with the Yamaha.  At least while it is under warranty.  Personally, I don't use Fram on anything I own and do not plan to.  Hope this helps a little.

I have also rerouted the fuel filter to make it easier to get to.  The next time it happens, I will also check it first to see if it is running out of fuel.  It doesn't act like one starving for fuel.  It just dies like someone cut off the key.  Just makes me suspect the CDI.

66Cummins- Do you have one of the hitches that bolt up to the hitch of the Rhino to keep it it place?  I forget the name of them.

When I first started carrying it this way I had a little different set up in order to take the weight off of the tail gate.  Our first trip was from Dallas to Glamis, Ca. dunes and then up and around Az and home.  Probably around 3500 miles.  I put a 3/4" piece of plywood in the bed and then set the Rhino up on jack stands and then tied it down. I used a piece of 1"x3" tubing to run under the bike and let it stick out about 6" on each side just in front of the rear wheels to set the jacks under.   After we got back, I started trying it without the plywood and jacks.  It worked fine.  I have made several 800 mile trips with it and several 200 mile trips locally without the jacks and plywood.  I did replace the tailgate cables with some stainless steel hinges.  Sort of like they used on pickups many years ago.  I also reinforced the side of the bed where the tail gate closes and the hinges attach so the bouncing would not bend that area.  My only other concern was where the bottom of the tailgate mounts on the balls that it pivots on.  I had heard stories of these bending but so far they have been just fine.  I will post some pics of the stainless steel hinges and plates I used as well as it on the jacks.

Badley- This is the only side view I can find.

That would be great guys.  I would be willing to help but have a limited knowledge of what's outside of my neighborhood.  lol. 
Thanks

Second pic. of ramps